• Thorn Sherpa Bike from SJS Cycles, steel frame
• Bake at Gas Mark 6 for 20 minites:-
• Wheels - 26" - Sun Rhyno Rims / Shimano XT hubs
• Chainset - Shimano LX 9 speed
• Chain - Sram PowerChain II PC991
• Tires - Continental Travel Contact 1.75"
• Brakes - Shimano V Brakes / Koolstop Pads
• Racks - Tubus Cargo Rear / Thorn Lowriders Front (steel)
• Panniers - Altura Rear / Ortlieb Front / Ortlieb Bar Bag
• Pedals - Shimano M324 Combination
• Saddle - Vapor Gel
• SKS Mudguards
• Shimano XT Bottom Bracket
• Marlboro Lights

Background

The present trend is towards bikes with very rigid frames; My bike has a much less rigid frame; I can easily flex the bottom bracket over an inch with my foot. The bike has traveled over 15,000 km in all kinds of weather, about half that distance on tours carrying 40 pounds or more, so I'm not impressed with rigid designs. Get on the bike and ride it to determine if it suits you.

A long wheelbase of 40 inches (102 centimeters) minimum and 42 inches (107 centimeters) or more preferred generally means a more stable ride and slower turns, which is more comfortable when traveling long miles. The longer wheelbase also allows room for mudguards and larger tires and better handling when the bike is loaded. A longer wheelbase is also very important for adding racks and panniers. If the chainstay is too short, the foot strikes against the rear pannier and/or a rear mudguard is impossible, so a length of 16¾ inches minimum (42.5 centimeters) and 17½ (44.5 centimeters) or more preferred is highly recommended.

Triple chainwheels are a necessary for loaded touring unless you are a young and strong or touring in a very flat region.

Wide tires are slower and skinny tires are faster on smooth pavement. However, skinny tires produce a pounding ride on rough pavement, have more flats, and cannot negotiate gravel roads. For long-distance touring trips, I use tires from 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inch; the heavier tires are slower but have a softer ride and better control, especially on gravel. With a mountain bike, I would recommend 1.5 inch tires for long-distance paved riding, although I have ridden with cyclists who used heavier tires and were happy. On the rough tire pressure should be somewhat soft to provide a less-harsh ride, but not under the recommended minimum inflation pressure.

I never used to tour with mudguards, looks so uncool, however, without them I will collected dirt on the chain and cogs which means they'll wear out faster. My bike now has low profile black mudguards, I don't have to clean the chainset so often and my feet remain dry in the rain. They look OK too, SKS mudguards are good. It's not for everyone, especially if you have very good weather and clean tarmac, or when its muddy you may like the black stripe down the back of your t-shirt.

For Istanbul to Singapore there will be no bike shops (or spares) for weeks so it's important to be self sufficient. Am taking 2 chains, swapping them every week, the end result being that the chainset lasts twice as long. Have just bought some bullet proof Sun Rhyno wheels, extremely tough for piece of mind, a firmer ride than my Sun CR18s which I prefer for fast touring.

The Rohloff Speedhub

No more derailleurs, there are 14 gears inside this rear hub, evenly spaced, covering the same range as a normal front+rear derailleur. Not cheap, adding about 1000$ to the cost of a bike, but considered a long term investment. I have heard of people still going strong after 70,000km and they're very reliable.

However, since I didn't invest in one, I don't have to worry about it breaking (see here). Would have one if I could afford it, a good article here.

In case of Emergency

Note to self: If something has broken whilst on tour then click here