I can now say, at my next job interview, in the distant future:) I rode a bicycle from London to Hong Kong, that'll impress 'em?

Not possible to cycle across the border, so took the train, the inevitable stares, who is this nut-case with a bike going up and down the escalators. Situation would compare to taking a fully laden touring bike on the London Underground, however, some nice conversations, "where did you come from", ...

Staying at Chungking Mansions, a wonderfully unpretentious abode, you'd have to see to believe. Situated in super neon glitzy area, 5 star hotels, upmarket shops, all very sparkly; Chungking Mansions are the sorry looking crumbling tower blocks. To get to my room, enter the shopping arcade (ground floor), small shops and crowded alleys, and find the block C lift. Squeeze into the crowded lift (with bike), my 'hotel' is a flat on the 13th floor, this being further partitioned into 6 'hotel' rooms, sardine-can is the word. However, a comfy big room for me and my partner (the bike), great price (for Hong Kong), great deal as normally rooms in Hong Kong just about contain a bed and that's it. Very multi-cultural here, at first I thought it was India, then maybe Africa, there's a big export trade here to these continents, mobile phones, ...

Good western style bike shops here, fitting a new chainset (cogs & chain), Chung Yung Cycle Co; when the mechanic removed the rear cogs we discovered the spokes had pulled away an eyelet from the rear hub, which meant a re-build with a new hub, fingers crossed. Happened in the last 2 days, the wheel was still running true, the spokes are heavy duty strong, the hub being the weak point here. To be frank, I'm amazed at the punishment the bike has taken, some extremely rough stuff across the mountains.

A short walk to the harbour and the star ferry, the night view from Victoria Peak is stunning, one of the best man made views in the world. Skyscrapers decked out like Christmas trees, both subtle and glitzy, wonderful colours reflecting on the harbour water and a laser show too. However, much of Victoria Peak is covered with huge shopping malls and restaurants taking most of the viewing areas, easy to forget you're on top of steep hill. There are also mid-level escalators, these are a huge series of walk-on escalators transporting people up the hill to the mid-levels, home to the aspiring middle classes/expats, densely packed sardines. Personally, I'd rather stay top of the hill away from the middle class riff-raff, but not being a millionaire, I'm seeing the city from the guts upwards, and very jolly too, on the lower peasant levels.

HK is expensive; you save money by eating/drinking at KFC/McDonlands, it's way more expensive to DIY your own food from a stall/supermarket. I splashed out at a low-end noddle shop which worked out 3 times more expensive. Noticed many people eating junk food for the same reason. Strange stuff, anywhere else in the world and Tescos is cheaper/healthier than KFC.

Pedestrians don't walk across an empty road if the pelican crossing says not to, ie a red light. Very strange behaviour after having been in China (where you'd cross an empty road). Invariably you have take a subway to cross the road, as soon as you descend, you are confronted with a vast shopping mall. Infact, HK is a shopping mall. Don't come here with shop-o-holick partner. Land reclamation and the star ferry will go out of business once the harbour's been filled in.

Here in frenetic Hong Kong, everyone's in their own zone, pre-occupied with the concerns of city life, a bit impersonal for me, but Hong Kong's growing on me, one of the world's great stop overs. I'd work here a few years, but only to earn enough money to move elsewhere, still Hong Kong is worth a visit. Where do I get my porsche and window shopping poodle?

 

The Symphony of Light is an orchestrated light and laser show featured on buildings across Hong Kong harbour, huge. Like a rock concert, buildings are introduced one by one, and each individual building responds to its name being announced, lighting up and sweeping rooftop lasers across the bay:- Introducing the "Bank of America Building" (yay), "the Bank of China" (bigger), "the liberation army of the people's bla bla bla (you ever forget a name?)", ... I couldn't stop laughing, buildings introducing themselves, truely surreal. At one stage, the effect was like a hifi's graphic equalizer, but instead of LEDs, these were huge skyscrapers reaching half-way across the horizon. Got to buy me one of those.
 

 

3 Countries in a Day

There's more China to see, and it's off to catch the Macau ferry, a more pleasant route back to China. To embark on the ferry, I wheeled the bike through the adjoining shopping centre, up escalators, looking the odd one out once again. I can't emphasis how wise it is to arrive in Macau any day except Saturday, when the Chinese arrive for gambling. There's a big casino scene here, on average each table makes 4 times more than it's counter-part in Vegas. A bargain during weekdays, quotes for hotel rooms where through the roof, so I congratulated myself bagging a country beginning with 'M' and cycled the coastal road to the Chinese border, and a more economically viable future. Healthy eating at last.

Back in China

Heading up the western bank of the Pearl River was a paradise compared to the earlier journey down the opposite bank, as there is less traffic/pollution. Just the occasional industrial smell of solvent/glue lingering in the air, but bliss in comparison. Carefully studying the maps, I used the small 'country' roads, not sure what to expect. These turned out to be 6 or 8 lane highways, plenty of room for mopeds & cyclists. The air is better after 300km, and there'll be countryside in another 100km.

I'm now cycling back to Guilin to meet friends on CTC cycle tour, Peter and Maree. A marvellous co-incidence being in the same area and I'm looking forward to their company. Been new roads these last 2 days doing a circuit around the Pearl River, now in Deqing and using the same roads as earlier. After my 2nd visit to Guilin, and a cycling holiday with friends, I will head to Nanning, Kunming and turn south to Laos.

In Hong Kong I bought new chains & cogs and had the back wheel rebuilt. After 300km everything is fine, infact the chain/transmission feels smoother and is wonderfully quiet. After 14,000km the old chain was wearing and making a racket:- whir, metal scrape noise, whir, metal scrape noise, whir, metal scrape noise, so I'm really happy. The rugby world cup is not on TV here, happy to hear England are doing well, a pleasant surprise to beat France on their home turf.

Some of the mountain road has been re-tarmaced since I past 2 weeks ago, amazing. A fellow Brit man talking about his import business; there's a 40km stretch of road with furniture factories both sides! So much choice, why go anywhere else? On the Chinese mainland, next to Hong Kong, Guangdong province has several 'special economic zones', business of a similar nature situated in close proximity. We've probably all bought something made here in this region of China.

Two young english speaking ladies joined me for dinner, they're friends came and it was 4. They invited me to join them the next day, unfortunately, I had to move on. A Chinese meal with Chinese people, the best way to meet. Jane, Hillary, Jessica and Laylian (their English names) were meeting up for the weekend, college friends, now embarking on their careers. They spoke good English, and insisted on paying, so I handed them 4 crisp US dollar bills as a souvenier. The river bridge at Zhaoqing failed to materialize, the locals had pointed me towards the ferry pier, was cool though, a roll/on platform nudged by a tug, fading light and cool breeze in my hair, mixing it with the big ships mid-channel.

Getting back to Guilin, so easy, the hotel remembered me, same room & price, all smiles. Good ride back, fantastic open country side feeling better for workout. Stopped different places to last time, small towns with very little, ate with locals in their shop, they refused payment, feeling humbled & with a spirits drinking session I slept easy. The next day, joined a group of fast Chinese cycle tourers, enjoying each others company for the day. Lots of hellos from people on the road-side, ah, back in a friendly place again, total contrast to Hong Kong.

Re-union with Peter/Maree

Peter & Maree waited mid-ride at a cafe, I rode up and a warm weclome by all, fantastic to see them! A cool drink, chin-wag, then cycled side-by-side to their hotel. Was expecting to see them, but I still couldn't get over seeing Peter & Maree in the flesh, out here, after 7 months on the road. Marvellous chatting as we rode side by side to their hotel.

Peter & Maree came to China on a CTC cycling holiday, in a group of 18. The Cycling Tourist Club (CTC) is owned by it's members, loosely non-profit, their mission "to make cycling enjoyable, safe and welcoming for all". To meet up, I've made a 4 day detour going north, abandoning the route along China's sea coast and a more direct route to Laos; worth it to meet Peter and Maree. Meeting the tour leader wasn't so easy, poor Lyndon, looking a little stressed, as he's under pressure by rules and regulations of the CTC organisation, and who wants an uninvited guest? My plan was to have a low impact, joining Peter & Maree when possible, not intrude on the group. However, I'm considered an insurance risk to Peter & Maree, preferably I should NOT have any contact, even the public road, so I booked into another hotel, original plan, but to be told to go elsewhere blunty, was a little dis-heartening. I am a member of the CTC with good 3rd party insurance. Anyway tricky situation for all. Let's blame lawyers for making it that way. Don't get me wrong, CTC are marvellous, arse-lick arse-lick.

I could officially join at a rate of 50 pounds a day, but this is a 500% increase for the same standard of accommodation and meals, a little profit going into the CTC coffers fine & leaders work running the whole show and organising every aspect, but this was over budget. I'm in a different world of long term money pinching, a low-budget mind-set, and once the line is crossed, well, I'd be staying in luxury hotels every night.

After dinner, I met with Maree & Peter, then some of the group drifted over to join us, pleasant keen cyclists. Next day, I set off an hour after Peter & Maree, overtaking at their lunch stop, and met later after the ride. The group may be wondering who I am, the ghost rider, but now I've met a few, and it's all fine, OK on the side. Taken aback at first, the situation now feels quite amusing. Also, Peter, brought me 2 huge chocolate bars from England, much better than the stuff out here, they didn't last long, gobble gobble.

On the Side

As the days progressed I met other riders, cycled alongside and chatted. I was questioned about my experiences from London to China and wasn't really prepared, the kinda questions that need a little thought beforehand, or I might blab on for ages. It's dawning on me, this is going to be my future party piece so had better think about it. The bike must have appeared like a heavy goods vehicle to the group (a support vehicle carried their bags), one of the riders lifted it; pretty heavy, maybe that earned a bonus point;) Someone commented how intimate I looked resting/standing on the bike, elbows on the bars, an interesting observation.

Invited to join the group to watch cormorant fishing, the ancient Chinese art of sending a bird out on a line, to catch your fish, no hooks involved. We ate our picnic on the boat, the driver disappeared onto another boat, so we drifted spinning in circles, but he came back eventually, and we cycled into a resort, Sanhe Village, for a day off, great scenery set amist a hotel parkland. I married a young Chinese lady, a touristy volunteer thang during a show, traditional costumes & circus type stunts. Relaxing on chairs, beer & coffee, chewing the breeze with the cycling group was good, ah, the art of conversation in English once again.

As well as the usual rice, this region has a huge amount of sharon fruit farmed in orchards, drying in the sun outside all the village houses. Thinking they were oranges, I purchased some from the road-side, the farmer was trying to tell me something, yes they taste better after drying in the sun, when they become like dried apricots. Fresh from the tree it tastes like a cross between a peach and tomato, not tasty, he he he.

Peter is great company, had all our evening meals together, the usual walk-around investigating towns, peoples, shops, interacting with the locals, wandering into the show by chance, putting meals together on the hoof pointing to bits of meat and vegetables. One superb restaurant where we ate in what looked like a shop-front window display, waving at curious onlookers as they passed. The tour route was excellent, well researched, rural roads with little traffic, made it easy to ride alongside Peter chatting (and the others), the best.

Enjoyed, a big thankyou!

Into the Sunset

A little sad to say goodbye, its been good, so with batteries recharged & feeling strong, I rode off into the sunset. Now heading West, over the top of Vietnam and onto Laos, 2000km from here, about 3 or 4 weeks of China left. Lots of white fluffy things on my map, are they mountains? Just an idea, considering doing all of Laos (rather than an earlier exit into Thailand), then crossing into Cambodia for Angkhor Wat, then Thailand. Interesting notes on cycling routes:- China into North Laos, South Laos & Cambodia, and Mr Pumpy.

Strange riding West, after riding East since April. Finishing the day into the sunset, and on the left most of the day; feels weird all day long, maybe some people's got them homing pigeon genes, sqawk.

Liuzhou, a surprisingly groovy place, buildings lit up pretty, the best in China so far, pedestrian walking streets and all the trimmings, food, drink... Not in the guidebook, asked locals for directions to city centre and cycled around to suss it out. No urban sprawls arriving here, it was whollop bang and your in the centre. The pedestrian walking street is ace, no traffic and little pollution, stroll at your leisure, look where the locals eat and have a go at ordering something. My bike and I have single room on the 18th floor, a new height record for both of us. In fact, this room is the first to get 10 out of 10 for comfort :- good price, friendly staff, hot water (tap labelled correctly too), satellite TV, computer with Internet connection (!), teak wood everything, direct line for incoming calls.... So good, I might just check out at 11:59am, besides I've eaten tomorrows breakfast already and the next objective is 1.5 days away. Latest: I took a rest day:) Chores to do and a little relaxing... no tourists, people are interested in western strangers. Giggling students in the English language section of the book store, hello! getting the star treatment again:) This is a terrific hotel and city centre, underrated, since it does not appear in any guidebook.

Nanning, capital of Guangxi province, major travel hub, good place for a rest day, hips/back needing a rest, hard riding all day with a sore body, but expect it will come right. The cold iced tea drinks are great, sounds weird, but they're really tasty similar to a chocolate milkshake. Another restaurant encounter with giggling young ladies, pity I can't speak more Chinese, curious thing though; Some Chinese people write things in Chinese script expecting me to understand, even though I can't speak Chinese; its because there are different spoken languages in China, and amazingly written Chinese is the same over the whole country, ie its not phonetic.

Raindrops Keep Falling on my Head

Pingguo: Hard to leave a comfortable hotel room when its raining, rained all day, in a lovely grim way. Back and hips aching, I tipped the saddle forwards, helped a little, hope i don't need a hip operation this time next year. Happily the aches disappeared half way through the ride, because I found something new to worry about. My left pedal had come loose, the ball bearings are completely worn.

Usually there are mechanic shops when approaching towns, so I pulled up to where this truck was being re-assembled, pointing to the pedal hoping for some luck. I started opening up the pedal, then they all came over and started to help, very grateful too, alas, the bearings are worn so that's a challenge for tomorrow (perhaps). The guy drove of with my pedal, thought he was getting new bearings or finding a lathe, but he actually bought me back a new pedal, a local Chinese pedal for 1 dollar. The fixed pedal is back on, it has SPDs (locks foot to the pedal), the Chinese one a reserve. Will look out for the ball bearing shop tomorrow, miming for 'ball bearings' isn't going to be easy. Later on, another good restaurant meal where I was given the VIP treatment by the waitresses, friendly & fun. Soaking wet, hotel hot water shower, yum yum, clothes drying out, contents of panniers, and me too. Rain is forecast tomorrow.

Bose: much cooler now & raining these last 3 days, wet wet wet, washing muddy bike prior to mad western cyclist walking into hostel reception, bike in room. No more rain tomorrow please. Pedal has slowed progress these last 3 days, numerous repair efforts, ball bearings & greasy hands, locknuts. Policeman escorted me to a 'bike shop', which was 2 old guys and their cart out on the pavement; bless them they tried, the locals joined in, another memory. When I say they tried, would you be impressed when the inner workings of your pedal are sitting in mud on the pavement, no effort to clean things before reassembly? Bless em anyway, wish I'd taken a photo. After that I bought some bearings and bodged it myself. Then it sezied today, 100km later, and got the best repair effort yet on the pavement. Fingers crossed, it may last a while, otherwise it's the 1USD Chinese pedals and a 'yet-to-be-designed' strapping system but dont hold out to much hope. Lots of mountains coming up, more remote from now on, yum yum...

Yunnan Province

Funing: Aha, bagged a great ride, 145km mountainous into Yunnan Province which translates as Beautiful Clouds in the South, the most south-west region of China bordering the countries of Vietnam, Laos, and Burma. A good aiming point, nice town with trimmings, and now earned a lazy day somewhere, as not much stopping today, a long day arriving at dusk. Pedal seized again, so switched to the Chinese 1 USD pedal and strap, worked suprisingly well. Hope it holds out, have another left pedal in case that fails. With a spare right pedal, now have total of 5 pedals, always room for more on HGV touring bike.

Good news, no rain, however after 30km the road turned to mud syrup, failed to get through the toll gate onto the adjacent express-way, they wouldn't have it. Carried on muddy up-hill, and there's this gorgeous clean & empty 3 lane wide express way just feet away, the service lane great for bikes, but surrounded by barbed wire fences. I eventually found a place to haul the bike over, a sandpit by the fence, snagging myself and panniers on the barbed wire. Fantastic smooth velvet express-way, quiet, grand views, smoothing out the terrain with bridges, tunnels, landscaping... saved 15km or so too. Stopped by police, then let me continue, a western cyclist on an mad important mission. Luckily a toll-gate was on a downhill and I sped past before anyone could stop me. When exiting the express-way, the toll-gate staff appeared very agitated, probably along the lines of "no cyclists on the express-way", my reply being "too late ha ha ha". Hotel room good, hot water straight off, good price, had a huge plate of fried/chicken/rice thingy and supermarket snacks. And the weather is much cooler.

Oiujie: Back to the A-roads, and its up, up, up and too little down. Met 2 touring cyclists coming the other way, an American couple, said they were glad to be heading in the opposite since its all downhill off the plateau. Oh, that's why I've been mostly going uphill for 2 days and the downhills, ie payback, not materialised. Could have chatted longer, however, had to rush off to make the last 50km of the day. Oiujie, basic town/accommodation, got lucky, the 'hotel' staff were really friendly and generous and I was invited to share a meal with a Chinese group. Lots of dishes, lots of people, great food, they didn't seem too hungry and had over ordered the food, which is great when there's a hungry cyclist at the table. Tried to pay but they wouldn't accept and had to drink a few beers/toasts with several people, no problem. I started the journey with 50 one US dollar bills, a 1$ bill makes a great gift, and they were chuffed.

Yanshan. Many Chinese places have my name in, feel at home. An 'easy' 80km, deserved a slow day and terrain is easier, scenery stunning; apline mixed with rice terraces, horses, buffaloes, locals are wearing colourful clothes now, more ethnic groups in this area of China.

Crisp blue sky & fresh air in the mountains, coasting down a long gentle downhill, no peddling, not a care in the world, a state of bliss, admiring the rural landscape, something new round every bend. One of those moments that make it all worthwhile, the view takes your breath away. Fabulous having a petrol burning stove, pick your view & cook noodles, a few bemused locals came past, slow moving buffalo carts are the best. Later, a truck pulled up and stopped in front of me, one of the people from yesterdays fab dinner, shook hands & gave me an apple.

Cruising slowly into town, I heard a rumbling sound, and suddenly there's a huge tiger right in front and staring directly at me. Turned out to be a circus truck carrying 2 prowling tigers behind bars. Surreal. And a camel on the road today, here of all places, must have been lost.

Chinese pedal/strap working, but wearing & becoming loose, not designed for hard riding. So, could be parking the bike and taking a side-trip to Kunming, everyone keeps telling me how wonderful it is. Or I could buy a bag of Chinese left-hand pedals, estimating that each one will last between 500km, would need quite a few until the next decent bike shop.

Warmer in the mid-day sunshine, but cold morning and night. Glad to have dragged winter clothes across China and today's hotel room has a carpeted floor, yippee! no more bare feet on freezing stone tiles. Will be interesting when get to Laos and temperature suddenly gets baking hot again. Kinda not that far away, a little over 1000km.