Yehah, made it to Laos, the most relaxed and friendly country in South-east Asia, a town called Oudomxay in the hilly north. 4 of us rode from the Chinese border, a relaxed easy ride to suit the pace of life here in Laos. It's been more of a gastronomic tour, he he he, that's the French influence of the group, the importance of a good food.
Arrived this town before 5 years ago on a previous cycle tour, but this time it's different, coming all the way from my doorstep in England. All the way with bicycle, no planes, trains or buses. A great feeling of and all that lies between, the memories of the journey so far bla bla bla...
Le Tour Gastronomique
No fixed plans, we just cycle, eat, take our time and don't worry about a route schedule. No towns nearby, we camped at a village, went down a dirttrack, and invited to pitch tents in local's back garden. Dinner at a restaurant supported by stilts over the lake and a welcome back to Lao sticky rice, eaten with every meal, usually by hand, sometimes dipped in a chilli source, I could eat this all day long. Fish popular too.
The Champagne of Coffee, Lao arabica is one of the most rare and distinct coffees in the world, and not exported. It's common have condensed milk at the bottom of the glass, and rich/smooth coffee resting above, appearing like an up-side-down guiness, ie black over white. Sip pure black coffee from the top of the cup, and scrape your spoon along the bottom for the sweeter milky stuff.
Then we became a group of 5 when Swiss David joined, he'd come from Kathmandu via Tibet. Romain and Natasha are travelling by tandem on their honeymoon, coming all the way from Paris. We turned into a gastronomic group of 7 when their friends, Louise and Haphia, caught us up here in Laos . Also on tandem, they'd spent a few days in a Chinese hospital recovering from skin burn after a downhill fall, not as bad as it sounds. We represent a mixed bag of countries; England, Slovenia, Switzerland, France, Ukraine, Argentina & Brazil.
Extended lunches and road side interaction with locals, we knew we wouldn't make the next gursthouse, and didn't care, so when we asked around at one village, where they invited us to stay, the house owner speaking a little English, we unfurled our sleeping bags and slept on the wooden floor, our hosts cooking dinner & breakfast, we donated of course, simple food and more sticky rice. I joined our host shopping for breakfast at the small market, where I managed to stop from getting rats on skewers for our breakfast, and paid for the more expensive fish. The rest of the group was relieved.
Zeberdi
Zeberdi means good day, and this is how Lao people greet us as we pass, kids get especially excited. Kids here are very cute, little toddlers carrying their even younger siblings around in hammocks on their backs, another tiny face appearing over the siblings shoulder. You don't get this is in other countries, the attitude here is very innocent, and jolly good too! something we lost in our more paranoid cultures.
Today I'm exhausted from continually saying ze-ba-di; approaching a village you can hear children shouting farang (foreigner), after which they all coming out yelling ze-ba-di, you can't help but slow down, join in and return the greetings, hi to the parents. Laos is a number one place, especially as a cycle tourist, the villages on route are so friendly, their life appears communal and relaxed, no worries almost, even the farm animals, and dogs sunbathing in the middle of the road. There are underlying problems as in any materially poor country, however, there's no place like Laos for smiles and happy faces, so not so bad. Money ain't everything (but it helps?)
I have different plans to the other 6 cyclists, who are taking a boat up North, but having done that before, I'm heading straight for wonderful Luang Prabang to put my feet up for a couple of days. They may catch up later, or I meet other cyclists as this section of Laos is a popular route.
Luang Prabang
Full speed ahead, good to burn off calories, I came across another touring cyclist on a day ride out from Luang Prabang, guided me into the best area, picking a good guesthouse for a few days. His one month holiday is nearly over and is flying out tomorrow. Good to have a little company now and again, but solo is also good, as there's more interaction with Lao people.
Luang Prabang is now very popular on the backpacking circuit, lots of trekkers/tourists here and all that comes with it, banana pancakes, baguettes/cheese, handi-craft markets... quieter 5 years ago on a previous visit. That's the good thing about cycle touring, you see all the stuff in between, magic places, where the trekkers zoom past on the bus. We're a different breed. People often ask why cycle? and I answer, "yes, the bus would be easier, and continuing that line of thought, an airplane even more so, but how much do you see travelling by plane?".
Luang Prabang, jewel of North Laos, yum, yum, off for a French baguette and Laos coffee overlooking the Mekong river, and a glorious sunset. A far cry from spending the winter in my home town of High Wycombe. Second time I paid for laundry, good value at $0.8 per kg.
Keen on seeing Angkor Wat in Cambodia, so posted this question about cycling from South Laos into Northern Cambodia. Helpful replies from fellow cycle tourists and great news, a new road replaces several ambiguous paths through the jungle, so very do-able. And no stepping of the tarmac in Cambodia, that's where the landmines are! Sounds hardcore, but not that dangerous really, as long as you go to toilet on the tarmac.
Classic Mountain Ride
The route from Luang Prabang to Vientienne is one of the most stunning cycle rides in the world, many other cyclists fly here for the this 5 day ride. My 3rd time, it's still a knock out. Not the biggest mountains on this journey, but big enough with climbs of 1500m, the road runs up and down fantastically sculpted terrain, villages clinging to the ridge and saddle points, Michael Angelo couldn't have chiselled a better landscape. The locals seem to enjoy living up here, thatched wooden buildings on stilts.
I met Kip, an Australian, on the way to Kiu Kacham, his 1st day of touring and a shock start in the hills, joined him for a while, but shot off to make it before dark, he came walking in at around 8:30pm in the dark. Wow, 3 hours walking uphill in the dark, great spirit & determination. Then a fellow Brit turned up, staying the night but going the other way, good company. Onto to Phoukoun up/down then the big downhill to Kasi and crap food, it really could have been dog meat, didn't see Kip, hope to hear the tale later.
The 3rd day, an easy downhill glide to Vien Viang, trekker chill-out paradise. There's an 'alternative' menu here, starting with weed/grass, happy shakes & pancakes and progressing to the opium section, in tea/coffee or just buy plain at $15 per gramme. Seemingly legal, not for me or most. More developed than when I came here 6 years ago, more neon, trekkers, banana pancakes, more expensive.
"For many, Vang Vieng is a highlight of their trip to Laos. If your idea of an ideal night involves scoffing happy pizza and quaffing lao lao all to the background of never-ending Friends episodes, then you're going to absolutely love this place. For many others though, this is a circus-like example of tourism at its worst. While you'll probably still enjoy your stay -- after all the scenery and activities are brilliant -- you'll probably find yourself pushing on to other, more interesting spots in Laos a little sooner then you may have thought. The town is riddled with such an array of guesthouses, restaurants and shops that it's hard to know what to do on arrival. Just about every shop front on the main streets of this small but rapidly developing town caters exclusively to the tourist dollar. If you're looking for some Laos culture, Vang Vieng isn't the place to find it. read more..."
Joined a German couple on the ride here, staying same place, bamboo bungalows near the river, far enough from town to be quiet, and close to go eat a real Indian Curry (British food), and other luxuries. Ate in town last night, embracing local culture we chose our restaurant by TV programme, eating Pizza at the Simpsons Restaurant. We could have chosen Friends, they're all over town. The bungalow resort is quieter, by the river, and has hammocks on which to chill, pineapple milkshake by day, beerlao by evening. Interesting to watch backpackers, after being a hardcore traveller these last 9 months, just to see how tacky this place is; that's whilst I'm eating succulent western beef steak. Yes, there's a few spaced out people here, amusing in a way, however I'm glad to have the challenge of doing it all by bike, and deserve my curry, steak, pizza, French fries, milkshake, m&m chocolates, ...
The last of 2000km has been big hills, and now they've ended, its warming up, t-shirts in the evening, the winter clothes are sinking to the bottom of bags, no more winter clothes...
Vientiane
Vientiane, laid back capital city of Laos. Someone said it's nearly Christmas, well core blimey guv, so it is. Tropical blue skys, palm trees swaying gently in the breeze, hot hot hot, the hardest decision is pineapple or banana shake? No advertising, no jingle bells, none of excessive build up to Christmas here, he he he, although will miss Christmas day with the family; turkey & cranberry down the road?
Hot, hot, hot, truly tropical at last, yipppppppeeeeeeee.... South Laos will be flat, shall miss the hills, but good for distances. Could head into Thailand and have an easy ride, but prefer to continue South on Lao side of the Mekong river, a longer route to Singapore. Heard you can get Visa on Arrival at the Cambodian border...
Moving On
No problems at Paksan, as the last time Peter and I was here, we took a wrong turning, ending up at a military base and lost a bag on the bus. After 2 hours of sign language and drawing pictures, a kind local understood us, and got a friend to intercept the bus 100km away. Ah memories.... Then a luxury hotel in Paksan, cheap as tourists don't get off the bus here, needed that after the recent cheap accommodation. The small town of Thakek is still charming, a dirt track promenade along the banks of Mekong river, same room/hotel as 5 years ago, same restaurant outside the big soviet concrete block hotel, he he he.
Then Pakse, 5 days with no stops, hot & flat cycling. Cycled SE Aisa before, many times, and this is a favourite route, now with more tourist infrastructure.Peter and I did a South Laos Tour 5 years ago, good to see the old places again.
Earned a rest day here, after the nitty-gritty cycling, am enjoying the indulgences of cable TV, milkshakes and traditional English food, ie curry. Yes, Indian Restaurants are new here. The riding is hot and flat, similar to desert 4 months ago, but with more eye candy, greenery, and refreshments along route. Iced Lao coffee is glorious at these temperatures, readily available, you get a whole pint glass of crushed iced, filled to the brim with lao coffee and condensed milk. A life saver, very refreshing, burp, 30km to the next one. 4 pints a day and no sleep problems to report.
Met Laurens, another cyclist heading opposite direction, bearing good news about Cambodian roads, ie some of dirt roads are now tarmacked, yipeee! Next day met Hiram, a Taiwan cyclist, headed opposite direction again, we found a guesthouse in Xeno, great to compare touring notes, conditions and routes across Aisa.
Camping at the Monastery
Then a long stretch of road with guesthouses suitably located for a 3 day ride, but I cut it to 2 days with camping, a good option being your nearest monastery. They gave permission and looked curiously as I unfurled the tent on holy ground, subsequently offering a spot in the main chapel, all to myself, just a roof over my head, no side-walls, sleeping in the cool open air, marvellous. Cool dudes these monks, very at peace, did my best to entertain their curiosity, cooking with the petrol burner, sharing food, pictures from home, bla bla bla... As the saying goes as quiet as a monk, lights out at 9pm, waking up early dawn, to a loud cacophony of cockerel crows, goodbyes, hitting the road and more iced coffees, wakey, wakey...
Theres not too much traffic, car drivers are pretty good, the animals however can be amusing. Dogs lie sleeping on the road, chickens run across at the wrong moment, water buffaloes just stand with little common sense. Nobody wants to smack into a big buffalo, so cars stop and sound the horn until the buffalo figures out which direction to walk in, appearing a little dazed and confused. Cycling is silent, some dogs jump out of their skin as I suddenly pass, my favourite was a group of pigs who scampered madly in all directions, pretty cute too. And one snake. And to sound politically correct, no animals were harmed during the course of this cycle ride.
Am now thinking of Phnom Penh for Christmas, then heading for the South coastal of roads of Cambodia, and West into Thailand, all new roads just finished, undeveloped and pristine so I hear.
Island Retreat
Khong Island, 30km from Cambodian border, for a quiet rest day, he he he, peaceful and idyllic, chilling, letting the sun-tan sink in. Chartered a small boat for the 1km crossing to the Island, seeing the place hasn't changed. Sat on the balcony reading my book, a view over the river and down the main street. Parrots, more later...
Route 13 ends in a fantastic red dry dirt track, up to the Cambodian border. Bye bye Laos, love you lots, hello Cambodia, who are you?